Showing posts with label Jamaican. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jamaican. Show all posts

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Journey to the West

Eat your heart out, Korean-Cosby.



West of Seoul's 'opening' seemed like five long centuries. I like to think I waited for its vehicular arrival for about as long as Su Wukong waited for the opportunity to be released from the Buddha's own hand. I checked websites, looked in the streets, read tweets, even tweeted to the point of being ignored by them. But, eventually I had to come to the understanding that I’d either be around when the damned thing got some gas and hit the pavement, or I’d be up in the air, on a plane to Red China waiting to eat dog in the streets. Fortuitously however, the Universe- at least I like to think so- wanted me to have both. 

Some Sundays ago, Bingeman’s park- just one of the many places Joey and I have been ‘dismissed’ from (Joey for no bad behavior whatsoever; me for corrupting the youth of Athens)- hosted what the Region called the largest food truck event ever. The less backhanding individual would politely introduce it as the 2013 KW Harvest Food Truck Rally for Charity. So, though inevitably expensive, I managed to absolve my cheap guilt by telling myself over and over again, ‘it was for charity.’ But let’s face it, I was perfectly prepared to spend what I still contend is a ridiculous amount of cash for novel street food. That said, let me just answer the question I seem to cleverly skirt with backhanded statements: will I EVER think food trucks are worth the cash? No. Not ever. You’re better off going to a restaurant. At least you can sit, loiter, eat, and not shit in the streets for the same amount of money, tip included. But again, it was for charity!

So, calling Joey out of an inebriated slumber, he, the XuanZang- the Tripitaka, the Tang Sanzang- to my Great Sage Equal to Heaven, journeyed with me if only to release me from the culinary tyranny that had enslaved my curiosity for so, so long.

And then there we were, standing in line with tens of trucks at attention, their engines all drowning out all the obligatory chatter us food fatheads could posture out of our glutinous mouths. We meant business. Joey meant to eat more than I thought he should have- without pacing himself, at least. Luckily, convincing him of the existence of other trucks, and not only the one we had ventured to eat, had him taking his time. West of Seoul’s docket had us choosing what I stereotypically considered Korean, culinary appropriations aside. I ordered what seems to be Waterloo’s proverbial food truck staple: Risotto balls, but Korean; and the only other item I considered patriotically Korean: pork belly. Unless doughnuts and apple cider are something I know nothing about. But cheap shots aside, and using Joey as the name-sake  for our order, we took our appetizers and ran into the giant residual tent left standing on the property after the previous night’s Oktoberfest celebration, where-in-which Joey witnessed a woman get pushed by a big drunk dude. Anyway…

The clever constitution of Kimchi rice balls never really seems clever in the least. In fact, it seemed too obvious when I read it on the menu; but I ate it. The things were hardy with glutinous rice, and briny from the kimchi mixed within. Still, I couldn’t help but think the things were missing an element. Otherwise, when it came to any sapidity, the things were bland, even with the Russian-esque Korean dressing, which’s familiar flavor you find in every other joint. Was it wise to play it safe? Or pander to pedestrian palates? Probably. Especially since I’m probably the most polemic eater around these here parts, and people would sooner listen to me than eat enough on their own and say, ‘hey wait a minute, I’ve had this before.’ Anyway, that’s the worst of it. What I did like was the flaky, light tempura used to batter the otherwise hardy staple. Frankly, risotto balls are the residuals of poor peasant proletarians who needed every calorie they could get. Eat enough and you’ll sink like a stone, so thank high cuisine for some gastronomic gentrification.



Texturally, West of Seoul’s pork belly was out of this world. I could feel the oil wet my lips, the tender fatty pork just melt away when I bit into it. No pull, no fibrous bite. It was unbelievable, especially around these here parts. Otherwise, it tasted salty and usual, which, unfortunately, had me yearning for something more. I won’t argue that simplicity is a good thing. Certainly, the popular convention today is that simple makes for the best kind of food, but the adage seems a little more than overused at this point. Simple can be good, but so can creative flavours, not that the pork particularly needed it. Still, buttery fat wasn’t enough to satisfy my adventure that day, and Joey wasn’t nearly comatose enough at that point. So we surveyed the long line of competition, inadvertently finding ourselves gathered around the attractively creative menu options of food trucks from out of town. What they were doing here? Charity, bro, charity. We were glad. And looking for something lighter than what we not minutes before crammed down our throats, found Hamilton’s Karma Chamealeon, apparently Ontario’s first 100% plant-based and animal-free food truck. Anyway, who really cares? Their Jamaican Jerk Tacos were enough to convert the most staunch carnivore, or the most unsympathetic, cynical eater who believes anything vegetable and restaurant related is a consumer trend. But I’ll be damned if Joey and I weren’t absolutely floored by marinated jackfruit pulled apart to match the texture of pork, topped with papaya-guava-salsa on blue corn tortillas. The creativity, the combination of tastes- sweet with savoury out of nowhere and a heat that came right at the last minute- made Karma Chamealeon our choice truck of the day, and forgetting trucks even existed in Waterloo. We went back just to smell whatever else landed in other customers’ hands. And since Hamilton seemed to dish out a great culinary chariot, we thought we’d try and make it a two-fer. 



Not two doors down, we visited Jonny Blonde, a truck offering a plethora of creative flatbead creations. And since the theme of the day seemed to me to be Korean, and the truck’s bulgogi sandwich offered a creative slaw with asian pear, as well as a mystery teriyaki sauce, I couldn’t stay away. Mixing our last little bit of dough, Joey and I begged for a sandwich split down the middle, and were humbly obliged. A soft, airy bread folded over rich sinewy short rib that curmudgeonly stuck between our teeth, but at least stayed true to a Korean staple. Jonny’s teriyaki seemed nothing out of the ordinary though, and would have saved him face to not call it his own. If anything, it was just more of the familiar. I could appreciate the creative chutzpah of combinations, but found myself done in by mediocre culinary rhetoric. A shame, but eatable to say the least. 

Hey, it took a humble monk 17 years to retrieve the sutras, and 5 centuries for a monkey to reach buddhahood, I’ll be damned if it doesn’t take me nearly as long to find something really remarkable to taste.


West of Seoul on UrbanspoonKarma Chamealeon on UrbanspoonJonny Blonde on Urbanspoon

Monday, March 12, 2012

D'Island

I’ve never eaten Jerk, nor have I ever made the effort to cook it. I did have a sibling who grew up eating the stuff and exposing me to ox tail and rice more than I’d care to remember. That said, you may not think I have much right to write about Caribbean food in general. But here’s my rhetorical counterpoint: having never eaten Jerk eliminates any bias ostentation I may have about the cuisine in general; there are no cultural culinary underpinnings to influence my perception besides the food’s actual taste. It all works in your favour, comrades. Your gastronomic guide isn’t familiar with all foods. Maybe I’m a little ashamed, but only a little. I’ll admit it, I only started food writing to motivate myself years ago while studying Chinese and Japanese, even more so to not feel so bad about dropping mad cash on congee for years. I’ve spent a small fortune. My beleaguered mother said I could have gone to cooking school using the money I spent. Love you too, Mom.

But eating’s an adventure, after all. That’s why I do it. To keep my life as novel as possible. For the most part, it works. A wise man once said, if you’re unhappy with your life, introduce more things to it. A superficial admission, but not without truth. Inspiring quotes aren’t how I keep my life interesting. But looking for new places is, and the Island Grill extended any gastronomic novelty in my life for at least one more week.

I never thought I’d be backed into any comestible corners in my life. But sometimes it happens. Sometimes it can be a blessing. Today was a good blessing. Even though the two places I went to prior were closed; even though I remembered the days I would wait outside the noodle shop beside the Island Grill’s plaza when I was early for my Chinese class thinking about how I’d probably never eat at the Island Grill. I was more cynical in my youth. I’m much more optimistic now. Like today, for example. I thought it might be nice to pretend I’m somewhere warm, far, far away. It might be nice to try something new. And it was.

The space may have seemed sparse and ill-matched, but it wasn’t uninviting. I liked its original dining space: patriated by Jamaica’s colours, crowded with a la carte items behind a glass counter, riddled with DVDs, spices, television, a welcoming cook and his grandmother. Next door was its bigger dining hall, fit with booths, club lights, a very well equipped bar and speakers. Though a quiet afternoon, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Island Grill saw some exciting nights. With all that and a ubiquitous mural of palm trees and sand I couldn’t deny its cajoling island feel, postcolonial, and weathered (in spirit), but enticing nonetheless.



Having no bearing on what to eat we were given some jerk chicken to sway us. Jerk chicken it was. The menu isn’t intimidating, but it does have enough food to make you think deeply. From curries, to hamburgers, to island favourites, all with island overtones. The a la carte caught my eye. Pastries and dumplings, cheap and inexpensive, waiting to me plucked from behind the glass. I asked for the gizzada, a Jamaican tart filled with shredded coconut and spice, resembling the butter tarts we’re so conventionally used to, but with an obvious twist. An affordable 2.50 for two palm sized portions. I certainly couldn’t complain about the price, or the flavor, though the hearty composure of the thing made chewing something oriented toward strong jaws. Nothing would stop me from getting it again though. Maybe the black cake, or other a la carte items.



When we made up our minds, picked our novelty Caribbean soft drinks and sat ourselves down we asked for, of all things, the jerk chicken. A safe bet, but pushed by the cook nonetheless. Accompanying that was a large bowl of fluffy rice coloured pink by red kidney beans, aptly referred to as peas by our cook, and maybe a little equivocated. It was a portion we thought unnecessary, but later appreciated as it helped to slurp up the rich sauce left over from our jerk chicken.



Accompanying the dish was a chicken soup, flavoured with thyme and hot spices, squash and the bad bits of chicken I personally love to grind between my teeth. It was a familiar thing, coloured amber by the squash, I assume, used to make it. Our salad, another equivocated fare, was a good helping of coleslaw, which I always look forward to. This time however, it missed that vinegary tang I so often love in the stuff. This time it was light, regardless of the savoury mayonnaise used to dress it.


Obviously, our jerk chicken was the most exciting. By the meal’s end we could have done without the side dishes- and the menu does give you the option, making it even more affordable.

If I’ve any disappointment with the dish, it’s that our food came warm rather than hot- an unfortunate symptom of the big batches of food cooked at a time and warmed later. Still, I managed to overlook it, distracted by the rich flavor of the sauce reminiscent of dishes stewed in tomato. Adding to its element was a spicy, smokey flavor that penetrated the meat and turned it into a moist, tender pull that fell off the bone. Not tough, not dry, not elastic like poorly cooked chicken. Again, this chicken could have just been served on its own, no need for sides that are mere pretenses. And even though the flavours weren’t new, the menu remained curious enough to lure me back in the future with hope of something new, novel, and exciting.


Island Grill
2934 King Street East
N2A 1A7
519-895-0010


Sun 8:00am - 9:00pm
Mon-Thurs 8:00am - 11:00pm
Fri-Sat 8:00am - 2:00am

Any Payment

Island Grill on Urbanspoon