The Young Masters

Years ago, in my more conservative culinary days, I would have done everything in my power to expel it from the collective culinary conscience of local eaters. ‘Fair trade? Whatever,’ I said. ‘Eating local? Who needs it?’ It was all a mere ruse. I thought nothing of the eaters seeking those conventions. Slavoj Zizek in my heart, I thought they were nothing more than degenerates; they’d all turn into monkeys.


However today, as if by some act of serendipity, the motley crew of handsome dudes and dudettes at Seven Shores have charmed my ruddy heart and have me wishing that I was privileged enough to work alongside them. Not because of its campaign for eco-eating, though I cannot deny the merit in that. But because of its crew’s swift work ethic and drive for mastery over food that spreads an infectious charm any customer will come by when seeing the passion in what is being made, whether soup, sandwich, confection, or coffee: the masterwork of the place. There is no resistance against a customer’s opinion, only humility.
When it comes to coffee, nothing but truth and artisanship, something the joint stands firmly behind. The horde is honest and will tell you the better coffee choice of the day, provided you ask. From drip to pour-over to the fabled Chemex Coffeemaker, if you’re lucky enough to come on the days one of the young adherents decides to bring his own in. That’s how much they care.

Yes, it’s a huge claim to say Seven Shores offers the best coffee in town, for there is no right or wrong when it comes to the science of connoisseurship, only mere speculative opinion. And yet, if I am to choose any durable standard for measurable taste I’d be a fool not to say nothing beats the brews at Seven Shores. You can even buy the beans yourself if you like it that much, the place is just simply happy having changed your life a little. But the buck doesn’t stop at coffee. There’s a bevy of other beverages, like smoothies and super smoothies (an intriguingly expensive specialty), cold drinks and potable potations offered from the place’s market shelf full of fair-trade and organic products, and even takeout from the menu. That said, there’s a lot to stuff down at Seven Shores, and the menu, combined with what is being baked or offered at the time can be a little overwhelming, but a myriad of choice might be your only problem. Either way, the help has no problem holding your hand through the process. And teasing you about it. That’s right, the prices are fair, and the humour is free.


I was invited to try a latte to start and have the Miso Sesame Tempeh Wrap: a simple wheat tortilla wrapped around meaty marinated wedges of nutty tempeh, stuffed with carrots mixed greens and, of all things, cashew butter. It seemed an odd combination, already disqualified in my mind, but that first bite cautioned me against my own prejudice. Yes, dear readers, I was humbled yet again; apprised of my spoiled self decadence. Cashew butter and vegetables in a sandwich? Who thought such a civilized combination could exist between a savoury preserve and fresh mélange. Not this dude. Accompanying that was a miso tapenade for extra flavor. A dark dipping sauce of what I assumed was miso, soy, sugar and sesame oil, the side offered a good buffer against a dryness that characterized the roll. And though I could appreciate the sentiment, I felt the wrap was enough to stand on its own.

Next on the dish was the side salad of the day, a coleslaw I couldn’t get enough of. A pungent medley of julienned cabbages, peppers, and root vegetables, the dish was enshrined by a homemade dressing of extraordinarily well rounded sweetness, accenting those Asian inspired flavours of the wrap, and tempering the fermented characteristics of the fresh cut cabbage. I daresay it was my favourite part.

To quell my gluttony further I asked for any baked goods, eyeing the banana bread and what the place called Marg’s Magic Bar, a palmed sized square with a graham cracker bottom and all the nostalgic fixings of the goods our moms’ used to bake us in our youths: nuts, chocolate chips, oats. I blushed at the first bite, the salty, buttery base ablated my sharp demeanor, and the sweet bits quickly picked me back up. Even its burnt edges had me curling my toes. I didn’t care that some might not like it. I did.

However, my banana bread had a mild sweetness accompanied by an unpleasant balminess one finds from using notably over ripened bananas, but its crisp exterior and moist interior more than made up for it.

Ironically, you may be pressed to find a place to sit, especially since Seven Shores has expanded into a larger space. That said, you might get lucky, and be able to pony up the dough to rent out the new community room for whatever venture. One thing’s for sure, regardless of its move away from its older folksy convention of space in place of a homier and more cosmopolitan design, it still manages to maintain its mission of fostering a sense of not only community but, I think, good connoisseurship.

Seven Shores Urban Market & Cafe
10 Regina St. N Unit 4.
Waterloo, ON. N2J 2Z8

Monday to Friday 7am to 6pm
Saturday 7am to 4pm
Sunday - Closed "Spending time with Family & Friends"

All methods of payment

Tweet