Monday, August 1, 2011

Definitive Thoughts on Wine

I’ve been privileged enough to eat lunch with my uncle this past while, and while doing so have taken up the snobbish characteristic of having, at each meal, at least a half a glass of wine, for fear of disrespect for allowing my uncle to drink alone, because, as it goes, no man should ever, unless alone, drink alone.

Now, I’ve heard, throughout my juvenile life in gastronomica that wine should always be paired with food- though I’ve no semblance of what that means. I might assume it means particular wines are made to go with particular flavours, but this holds no truck with me. Because, as I’ve been drinking different wines I’ve realized that they do a better job of juxtaposing the dishes I eat them with. Maybe I’ve been drinking wrongfully, but I think it works in my favour. The meals I eat, or am fed, are so decadent and rich, that to drink something of the same quality seems, at least for me, too overbearing. In fact, I’ve come to the realization that it’s better to drink wine that cleanses the palette, or gives the diner some perspective. That is, when you eat a meal and drink your wine, the wine should allow you a short break from the punch in the face that is your meal- it should give you some perspective, it should allow you to distance yourself from your food so you may not be too overwhelmed and over-satiated by the things you are eating, which can be very very rich (like goat’s brains, or onions in a Gorgonzola sauce). Wine itself can be a potent thing, astringent and lip puckering at times, but I find that balance is welcomed when I eat something so savoury and salty. I’m reminded in these instances of Chinese culinary theory, when balance in all flavours is necessary for every dish, or sought after, anyway. Wine does this for me. If I can continue the metaphor, I would dare liken it to eating a piece of pickled ginger between pieces of sashimi to get the full effect of each piece of fish, and not be distracted by whatever previous flavours linger on the tongue. So too with wine. Wine may linger, but when I put food to my mouth, it goes mute. Contrarily, when I drink a glass of wine, it quenches whatever overbearing flavour I just saturated my poor palette with, like a friend giving you a slap in the face to snap you out of some kind of love sickness. I don’t think this is how wine is conventionally drank, but I like to drink it this way. It works for me. I don’t want earthy lamb with earthy wine. I’m not a hamster, I can’t eat the same thing all the time. It’s too much, I’m too spoiled by my culinary researches. But I ain’t sayin’ I’m right. What does it matter anyway? What good is wine for a fella if it don’t get him laid, am I right? Why all this smug connoisseurship if not to keep others out of some charmed circle that elevates a chosen few to a level of social sophistication that arbitrarily makes them seem that they are, by some act of providence, better than the rest? Boy, howdy, I tell ya.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Island Food




See those people on the left? Natives.

Guenther and I drove by David’s Fresh Cut Fries many-a-time. Once, we stopped just to check out the selection of soft drinks, Guenthy having said they sold a strange kind of soda called birch beer. If I could have likened it to anything I would have likened it to root beer with a cough syrup after taste it was that bizarre. After today, I think we both realized how foolish we had been putting it off for so long. Located in the smallest of plazas, the shanty depended on nothing but the reputation of its rich, savoury, stick to your ribs food. Never mind the condiments left open in the sun, never mind the weathered umbrellas waning over the tables, dismissive of their job to shade customers, never mind the lone picnic table beside a dumpster, never mind the flies customarily buzzing around your orders. The food is all. No, it’s not haute, and it’s totally fast (as in fast food), and you can’t really scrutinize food invented for the salt of the earth, proletariat worker who probably never knew food could be legitimately criticized. It’s just, as Guenther so poignantly put it, stick to your ribs food. It needed no appraisal, or approval, no validation, because people would still come to eat it. Why? I reckon because it’s that kind of dangerously good food; loaded with trans-fats, carbs, heart attacks, high-school cafeteria memories. When you like to indulge in the days when you could spend whatever amount of money and self-esteem on what we as adults today view as the most ‘disgusting’ eatables. That’s as close as I can come to describing this type of fare. Though I could also easily say it’s Newfoundlander food, which means it’s overly starchy and has starch where starch shouldn’t be and will clog arteries and give comas. But I say this all with the most endearing sentimentality, because I friggin’ love the stuff. Give me cholesterol or give me death.



David’s food isn’t complex, it’s certainly satisfying, and though I was kind of angry with the price when reading the menu board, I realized, after seeing the portions, it was really affordable. And if you have a hankering for fast-food, you may as well get it from a place that recalls all the flavours of thanksgiving dinner. Case in point: Guenther and I, being the ethnographic eaters we were, decided on the Newfoundland fries. What better way to know the food than to get the signature, identity associated dishes that stand in for a folkway. Yessir, we were alimental anthropologists, discovering new terrains of the table and trading pleasantries with the natives who happily shared their orders with us, who told us we were crazy for not trying David’s hamburgers, who made sure we got our fries with peas, fried onions, gravy and, of all things, thanksgiving stuffing. If not for them we would have never known that David’s was totally seasonal, that it opens when the weather turns good and closes for the winter when it dies down- whenever that may be. We chortled. They were overbearing, but only because they were happy to see new mouths; happy to see that David’s was still under discovery. We appreciated their spirit because it told us that David’s food was worth trying. Though of course, we had to pace ourselves. We wanted to try it all, but the hamburgers were big, and our orders of small fries enough to pass as a small meal.



Surprise! Stuffing underneath.

Yes, Dave’s tried hard for what it was. Its fries were cut fresh, or so Guenther told me as he spotted the boxes of potatoes in the shack, and the options limitless- we could have cheese, we could have chili, hamburger, bacon, whatever our arteries desired. But today, stuffing was all we needed. Tucked snuggly under a blanket of gravy, diving into your peas and onion smothered fries revealed a French fry that became a vehicle for an herbiness so reminiscent of the stuff we buy on grocery store shelves and stuff inside our own selves at Thanksgiving. Mildly sweet, starchy and ambrosial, it was hard to have any qualms with this Styrofoam packed treasure. We dared wondered if the burger paddies were as fresh as the fries. What else could the affable Latina who served us do all day? Watch telenovelas? Regardless, only time would tell. We agreed to come back soon, to tell the world about the onions that weren’t stringy, but soft, and tenderly fell apart in our mouths; to tell everyone about birch beer and pineapple soda (of which I’ve never seen anywhere else). To crusade against French fry complacency and fight to make sure that every province has an embellished fry dish some day. Only time will tell.



For you, Guenthy.


David’s Fresh Cut Fries
(519) 748-2024
36 Lancaster Street West 
Kitchener ON 
N2A 1B1

Hours: who knows?
Cash only, comrades.
David’s Fresh Cut Fries on Urbanspoon

Sunday, July 24, 2011

As Constant As the Northern Star

My animosity towards the all-you-can-eat sushi place in this town is dwindling. This means one of two things: that my own pre-judgments and pretentious assumptions denied my stomach the chance of really getting to know these eating places and limiting my own experience to a few terrible experiences in previous ‘hasheries.’ Today, I wasn’t pleasantly surprised, but certainly tempered against the bias that accompanies my own opinions of sushi in a place that is so far away from the ocean and fresh fish. But what does that mean anyway?

It may be a moot point even discussing Sushi Star, a restaurant that’s been around for a substantial time, and a restaurant I’ve given only the slightest of nods, having heard mixed reviews about it throughout the years. However, dear readers, I like to believe we’ve developed a good amount of rapport between the lot of us and that what I do have to say about the place has some merit.

To say I had a hankering for sushi today would be an untruth. In fact, I can’t claim to be a die hard fan, though I certainly can say I enjoy it, but not as much as the body builders who frequent the all-you-can-eat stops at least 3 times a week to keep their weight up. Today’s venture was a kind of earnest admission in order to see if the all-you-can-eat sushi place is a place even worth going to anymore, or if it’s gone the way of the great portion-givers of the West’s glorified consumer past; I speak of fast food joints, Chinese buffets, pancake houses.

So what can I say about Sushi Star that hasn’t already been said about an all-you-can-eat sushi spot? Believe me or not, there is some interesting personality accompanying Sushi Star’s food. Some peerless exceptions that make you consider the micro cultures that exist around the locales of restaurants. I normally don’t pay any mind to restaurants catering to the palettes of customers thereby changing their menus for profit because I glamorously consider it a kind of selling out, but this is stupid. Because while it could very well be perceived this way, it is exactly that dynamic that allows the all-you-can-eat to stay separate from others and in business.

Yes, there are tables with bamboo appliqués, contemporary paper lanterns hanging off the ceilings, neko fukus, pervasive dinnerware with calligraphic eggplants and Japanese characters of ‘delicious’ printed on them (purchased from the supermarket up the block), roasted rice tea, beige booths and uniformed wait staff, which are all too familiar. And on the other end of that familiar, maybe clichéd, spectrum there are the darker dining rooms in the city full of red, black and fancy wood, but these are nothing more than the Chinese whispers of sushi reviews from the past which are cause for nothing more than snap judgments for every all-you-can-eat sushi place.

Sushi Star has rare oddities, like deep fried milk for dessert, pork bone soup (sans the bones and pork, sadly), sushi rolls stuffed with nothing more than avocado and pineapple (surprisingly refreshing), plum wine (inexpensive plum wine), a selection of kind of real ramen noodles- or lo mein- or lao mian- or pulled noodles- on the menu; even purple yams. I didn’t think I’d ever find such individuality in any all-you-can-eat menu; there was even grilled saury. Never mind the misspellings on the thing, at least it was manageable. I wasn’t bombarded with infinite options like I usually am at other all-you-can-eat spots. And have no fear of being left out if you go for lunch, what’s kept exclusively to the dinner menu is comfortably small. There are only four kinds of raw fish offered (but all kinds of sushi) which I actually appreciate and interpreted as taking seriously the food offered.

Sushi Star really is its own world. It has wait staff that devotedly beckon to every whim and happily write down what you want, rather than giving a slip. I’ve commented on my displeasure at this choice of service in the past, but the wait staff had an exceptional charm.

The food wasn’t matchless, but it did offer up some great distinction: mackerel sushi with dollops of pureed ginger for example on rather thin and well balanced fingers of sticky rice (no wasabi underneath though). What really impressed my company and I was the temperature of the raw fish, never cold, but tempered to the climate of the room. Usually, we as eaters assume cold raw fish means it’s fresh, but in reality a fish pulled out of the ocean never comes from some underwater fridge. Some rolls could have used a little more rice, as the layers were so thin the nori peered through, and our curry chicken was a muddy sauce of salt. But for every yin, there’s a yang; our shredded crab pizza had a thinner base than other places and was easy to put in our mouths, the sauce of red peppers and spicy mayonnaise lending itself perfectly to the charred flavor of rice deep fried in a bread crumb coating. The deep fried scallops were a little leathery, but pea sized and easy to pop into our mouths. Dumplings were peppery but with a refreshing vinegar tang, and our seaweed salad not sweet at all like most places, but rather savory, though sometimes sinewy. The food ebbed and flowed between us. And though it wasn’t perfect, Sushi Star just has too many good qualities to disqualify altogether.


Sushi Star

450 King St. E., Kitchener, ON N2G 2L6
519 584 2341

Mon-thur 11:30-10:30
Fri-Sat 11:30-11:00
Sunday 12:00 – 10:30
Lunch Mon-Thurs 12.99 Fri-Sun 13.99
Dinner 19.99 20.99

All methods of payment accepted


Sushi Stars on Urbanspoon