Friday, June 17, 2011

A Passageway to India

Privileged to be in Kitchener-Waterloo means being privileged enough to experience some rare and not so rare, but very much appreciated things. What do I mean, dear readers? Oh, y’know: ramps, morels (both by this point posthumously out of season), Chinese food dives- all of which I spend copious amounts of time remembering. I like to reminisce about the things I’ve eaten in the past; sometimes for overindulgent amounts of time. Memories are the paradise of the mind, after all. So says Zhuangzi- or a fortune cookie I read. I’m willing to bet it was the later, and no doubt from a Chinese place I was eating at. But please don’t misunderstand, my comrades in chow. Though I enjoy the frequency of my ambles through university plazas and the melancholic ballads of Cantonese pop singers that crash out of the surrounding convenient stores late at night, I am nothing if not serious about finding a place that caters to my own voluptuous yearnings and good eating experience. So, when I say this is going to be yet another review of yet another place of Chinese chow, don’t be discouraged. There is nothing to be discouraged about, especially at Tasty Home Kitchen. A new place open nary 4 months.
Now, I’m not one to visit a place as soon as it opens, because it’s my firm belief that every place of eating needs to gain some footing. However, Tasty Home Kitchen’s symptomatic Oriental English translation and idiomatic Chinese characters, I assume understood only by those who really understand the colloquialisms of the language or dare ask about them, dared me not to try and resist discovering just how much of a stone cold dive the place potentially was. And of course, it was no such thing. On the contrary, Tasty Home Kitchen, a seemingly cramped and small restaurant on the outside, but long-stretched hall on the inside equipped with some very personal nodes for more intimate diners proved itself to be very conventional, very cosmopolitan, very twenty-something Taipei. Its earth toned walls, treated wood panels (and chairs), dimmed lights and crisp dinnerware had the potential, if I tried really hard, to make me believe I was eating in ‘Some Big City, China.’ The prices weren’t bad either. They competed well with other fare in the city- the lunch menu especially.
I did my best to order something uncommon in regards to other places around and since it would have to be a quick lunch, I thought I would give the Hakka chili chicken a try. I expected, as the takeout menu had read, to have the option of having fried rice or noodles, soup or a spring roll with my meal. Sadly, I wasn’t even asked, though still met cheerily by the women who served me my meal, which began with a small bowl of sweet and sour soup and a plastic glass of water. Tea should usually the common courtesy. But that didn’t dampen my spirits. The upbeat Mando-pop that trilled down from the ceiling kept me in a very familiar and accustomed mood.
The pungent aroma of sweet chili made its way to my nose but was teased away by the spiciness of the soup as soon as it hit my tongue. I would have otherwise been disappointed, but with such a small portion, and with the expectation of such a culturally rich dish to come (the Hakka dish being the invention of Chinese that settled in India for a brief moment in history) it was hard to pay such a banal starter any mind.
At last, a plate of battered chicken, and chopped onion stir-fried in a dark, salty sauce on top of rice made its way to my table. I was a little ahead of myself, thinking that I’d choose something else on the menu to potentially fill me up if eating what just arrived wasn’t enough. Stir-fried chicken bones seemed a potentially good compliment. But sometimes my eyes are larger than my stomach. The arid crunchiness of the deep fried chicken acted as the perfect vessel for the thick sauce; however, whatever sweetness I expected from the onions to offput the plate’s overbearing saltiness was a wash. Even the spice of the dish couldn’t overcome its salty character. But if anything, I was full, and that was something, though I’ve come to the conclusion that a communal eating experience may have been a better choice, rather than simply opting for one lunch dish. Something as salty as Hakka chili chicken needs some balance, and I got a little of that by asking a table nearby if I could sample some of their pork intestine and starch rice noodles (chopped rice cakes) in hot sauce. It resembled a spicy pickled anti-pesto, strong in fermented currents of vinegar. The pork intestine was fatty, but with a unique floral redolence that lingered in the mouth as I chewed.
Maybe lunch was a bad idea for my roving palette and what I needed was some company instead of asking strangers for food- though I’m sure they would have liked to become friends. For what it was, my salty spicy mess was filling, but I urge you to save your pennies, comrades, and go elbow to elbow down the long corridor of Tasty Home Kitchen and get a lot of good things to eat.

Tasty Home Kitchen

247 King Street N
Waterloo, ON N2J 4V2
(519) 885-8880
All methods of payment accepted.
Tasty Home Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Journey to the South East

The Chinese bakers behind my house sold the business and moved on with their lives. I found out, ironically, and sadly, Monday, the day of the Dragon Boat Festival- the day I would, and had been carefully planning for since March, beg them (yet again) to teach me noodling. With a bag full of tea as ritual gift and sign of my seriousness for tutelage, I arrived at the front door only to have been told the sad, sad news by the new owners, who couldn't have given a flying fuck and a rolling donut about noodles or anything baked by the Chinese. So it goes, comrades. But this brings me to the main action of this story.


I had been turning over in my mind for some time now the idea of staying with the monks at Mommy and Uncle's temple. For days after work I kept driving by the tender place of my old employment and wondered when I'd have the gull to go in and say hello. Tonight, I finally did.

Stepping near the door, Uncle spotted me from the patio and waved me down, thinking I was just walking by. I assured him he was the reason I came, and, the laughing buddha that he was, he told me to go on in, paying no mind to the customers still left outside. I was touched.

I made my way through the dining room, said hello to old kitchen colleagues, and came to the back with Mommy cooking and her sister, as always, cutting vegetables.

As I watched Mommy fry copious amounts of fish I said my venerable hellos and was, as usual, offered all the food in her world. And, as usual, I appreciatively declined, only to have been offered a drink of lemon grace tea by Uncle moments later. I had missed this place, and though I see it in passing almost every day when making my way to my own family's restaurant (in attempts to touch the roots of my own heritage’s food), it was the people in that space at that specific time that made it the place it was and that I had missed. Closing time. After hours. Cooking for each other, cooking as a family, eating together. The time, as far as I've always been concerned, that everyone lived for.

Mommy had explained that she had been preparing food for the monks at temple and that Uncle was going to take it to them; and serendipitously, just like that, I was given the opportunity to ask if Mommy thought that the monks would let me stay with them at temple for a couple days. Mommy said of course, and Uncle, always willing to help, said that there was a night festival soon and that that would be the perfect opportunity because that's when everyone goes. And if that didn't work I could always go another time. Mommy made the decision for me to go with Uncle right then and there to visit the monks late that night just shy of 10 pm as they packed their errand of pad thai, curry and mango salad. Mommy said I could stay, eat with them, and just be. That some nights, when she's too tired, when we're all too tired of the world, we can all just go to temple late at night, meditate and fall asleep, wake up the next day, and leave.

Filling the last bit of basket Uncle held the basket of packed food up to mommy's head, and then her sister's, the two taking turns bowing and saying Buddhist prayers so the alms would happily make their way. Uncle and I then loaded up the car and left.

I'd always daydream about making food delivery trips with Uncle when I worked at the restaurant, and for a brief moment I felt a pang of irony and sadness that the moment had come when I wasn't part of the crew (though today I'm sure they’d still consider me one of their own). With the sounds of Laotian love ballads undulating from uncle's car stereo and oozing in both of our ears like liquid sugar I did my best to catch up with Uncle, telling him that I had been working at my family's restaurant these past couple of months and assuring him that I remembered his teachings on how to descale a fish (a story I'm sure I'll tell you, dear readers, someday), and that yes, I still knew how to cook Thai, though I haven't cooked it much because cooking it for only myself seemed like such a sad thing.

Arriving at temple, Uncle's friend, having been staying with the monks for some time now, greeted us and led us to the kitchen, where I saw a small table full of what looked like fresh noodles. I had recalled the bakers, and thought maybe the monks made their own food. Then, remembering the gold, yellow, pink and white braids on my wrist assumed that what I was coming to was a plethora of Buddhist prayer bracelets, something the monks made for the masses. Uncle enlightened me: the long, thin gold strands were actually candles. Candles for the ceremony coming up that he told me about barely an hour ago. Each long, white string had been dipped in a long dish filled with melted bees wax and hung over the oven fan, the drippings hilling into small dunes below, gathered in a disposable oven tray. When dry, and looking like fresh noodles, they were placed on the small table next to the oven. I listened to the soft clicks of Lao that passed between all the men in the kitchen; I peered in the fridge, looked on the shelves, and noted that the monks never had to cook for themselves because the community did it for them. The bowls alone were enough to supply a small country.

While I lost myself in the curious prayer wheel tatooed on one of the monk's arms, another monk hobbled into the kitchen while pinning his robe over his shoulder. He had just woken up and covered himself in time. Uncle told me that if I wanted to I could speak to him because he could understand some English. I told Uncle I'd wait for the head of whom we quietly passed in the hall for fear of disturbing his meditation in the shadows, lit only by the little light that bounced off the three golden Buddhas which sat ascetically on the hearth, there to not only guide devotees in meditation, but to give them some reflexive perspective.

When he came to and I watched his silhouette approach the kitchen, me peering in and out the door, I readied myself in my chair. He stood at the doorway seemingly awkward, but I realized I had been projecting my own character on to him. He was quiet and his presence was, in all actuality, commanding. I had greeted the monks before, having had no trouble bowing to them, but this time something stopped me.

A beat.

Uncle told me to remove my hat. Embarrassed, I did, and, like a kid, followed the monk into the great hall after Uncle told him I had something to ask and that I should go talk with him in private. I had naively assumed Uncle would do all the talking for me, but the monk was articulate enough to hold conversation, and this I knew, having met and spoken with him years before.

Having sat down before him at the hearth, I pleaded my case and to some confusion had seemed as if I was looking for some spiritual guidance. I had assured the head that although I appreciated the sentiment, I had nothing so serious in mind. I did not want to necessarily become a monk, nor wish to spiritually find myself or reach some deeper understanding of the Buddhist faith, I merely wanted to come and be. I merely wanted to stay there, cook, clean, meander aimlessly, have pretend conversations with the Buddha, and really nothing else. Just spend time with the monks, as boring as that may seem. He told me that that was perfectly fine, but that I should also have some kind of structure and discipline during my stay for the sake of leaving with something. I humbly agreed. From there, the head got to know me better, asked who I was, where I came from. He and I had both been students at the same university at the same time last year and were, in fact, graduating on the same time, just in different departments. I told him about my adventures with food, about having come to temple with Mommy and Uncle and how having seen how food happened there made me think that temple seemed like a good place to be. He understood. And we talked a little longer- about food in Asian faiths, how the Buddhist is always obliged to cook for another, and the Monastic should never cook for himself unless absolutely necessary, but that a dependence on the lay cooker teaches moral obligation and creates a strong bond between monk and community. I remembered the fridge. We spoke more about religion, about his academic work and how the academy can certainly be lonely. We spoke about discourse, the multicultural, my lack of direction, accept when it came to food, and practitioner scholars, something I had heard of, but never really given much attention to.

It had been almost an hour before Uncle came out of the kitchen and politely broke up our conversation, telling us that, unfortunately, we had to leave because mommy was all alone at the restaurant and needed help closing because it was nearing midnight. I thanked the head for his time and consideration, gave a half-assed bow (which I planned to improve), put my shoes on and said goodnight, awaiting his reply for my retreat.

Uncle and I headed home.

Mommy was waiting for us by the front door, unlocking it with one hand, and passing the phone off to Uncle with the other- their grandchild was on the phone and couldn't get to sleep. Cajoling them with the help of his wife, Uncle was talked through the conversation by Mommy, who carolled her usual ois and tall mmMMmm when playing back and forth in witty conversation. They were sounds I dearly missed, especially during the cold winters I recalled them happening in.

I said one last goodbye watching Uncle make his way to the fridge with tubs of cleaned lettuce, and Mommy as always offered me first a drink (yet again) and then some of the food they intended to eat that very night. A humble plate of six quail eggs, greens and rice. I graciously accepted, and Mommy, as democratic as always, gave me two and a mound of rice, cheerily peeping to herself that we all got two eggs each. The act only solidified the already good reputation of Mommy in my own mind; that she could have so little but still share it equally with someone else. And yes, I know she could get food elsewhere, but that wasn't the point; the point was, or at least how I saw it, was that the energy that went into cooking would be reason enough to not want to give so much food away, because it was late and to cook more would take even more spirit. Maybe I can't articulate this thought as well as I can understand it in my mind, but lack of food never stops Mommy or Uncle from always offering me things and telling me to not be shy, to, like the lay or monastic, feel a moral obligation to cook for others before themselves. This makes owning a restaurant, or being a cook, in my heart, a very worthwhile and legitimate thing. I would never have been otherwise able to justify the act in my own life until my conversation with the monk tonight. I always saw cooking as kind of shallow, glamorous, and kind of unimportant air, and though it may all be relative to perceive it the way it is and from the context of Mommy's, Uncle's and the monks' lives, it certainly has made all the difference.

I left thinking more about it. Having finally realized the most sincere and best way to cook in life and how I could cook and be satisfied with myself without feeling utterly hopeless and without meaning.

There may not be any glowing figures, and like Mommy once said, when it comes to faith, she believes it, but doesn't believe it; still, there are certainly things there that make life a lot more liveable. I thought even more about it, at ease with myself for the first time in a while. I thought even more about it. About Mommy, monks, apples and raccoons.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

The Ill Shing Leung



My brother in culinary arms.
Eating with Shing Leung always means spending a whole mess of money; but I can't complain, because he's my brother in eating arms and if not for him, I would have never learned to eat, or known what it meant to eat with other people. What it meant to roast coffee beans with a heat gun, stuff a giant nameless fish with noodles, or learn to squat on the curb over a sewage drain with a bowl of pho and thus prevent a potentially bigger mess. Eating alone can be a very lonely thing, so says Gille Deleuze, or so I heard my professor tell me once because I was too lazy to find the text. Regardless of all that, I've spent a small fortune eating with my comrade for the past five years and earning, what I think is, a rare and privileged education in gastronomy.
Sometimes, when I got the guts, I like to hitch a ride on a bus and take my sorry ass to the big stinky city of Toronto and from there take a subway and go make big trouble in little China, which is my affectionate name for Richmond Hill and Markham, amalgamated in my mind into one place of strip malls consisting of Asian restaurants and grocery stores- and maybe some dental offices, but nothing else.
No way. Okay, gross exaggeration.
There are other kinds of restaurants- but seriously, nothing else. I believe they stay afloat by depending on the inhabitants of both townships to work outside the cities, commute back home, and eat- and buy real estate.
Last weekend was a special treat, because while I haven't been to the Hill in a long, long time, the ill Shing Leung and I decided to have a chow down at Guu Izakaya: a favoured Japanese tapas bar (yeah, tapas, that's right- not that Asian food culture doesn't already manifest the idea of small dishes at a communal feast, but in order to get the ignorant Westerner/hipster to come they need the label of ‘tapas’ so it sounds friggin' trendy, but whatever). I was scared. I'm not cool enough for the bodies that meander through the streets with Neon Trees playing behind them wherever they go; instead I look like (my own fault) a sailor on shore leave: hat on head, bags around shoulders, books on food and porn theory in my hands (still to this day). But that's okay, I've come to terms with it.
I came late, but lucky for me Shing put us on a waiting list so we had the pleasure of our company until, unbeknown to us, we were allowed in and blitzed by the hyper-greetings of the entire staff that worked there, shouting "welcome" in unison (in Japanese). From the front door we were circumnavigated in a room that had a stone wall permeated by small squares of light (and electric ceiling lights) to the front bar where we were seated on the heaviest blocks of wood which were actually used for stools. Aw yes, the experience reminded me of my time working off the shores of Okinawa: big wooden tables on the floor where strangers were forced to eat together and dim lighting combined with the huzzah of voices, more or less happy to be eating, much like the mess hall of a barge. To the point, Guu was a total theatre for whatever Orientalizing mouths dared venture and pretend to see what Japan was really like: not overworked salaryman getting smashed and cooks crying back and forth for the sake of getting food out, but cooks who are happy to sing out what order number is called and do cool Night of Fire dance moves between dishes and around deep fryers so eaters wouldn't be concerned with the tapas’ sizes and prices. Just sayin'. Just sayin' the next afternoon Shingzy and I went to a ramen shop in J-Town (another novelty of Markham with Japanese-Italian food, the typical overpriced Japanese grocery store, and what not) and were not greeted the same way. We were greeted, yes, but quietly and humbly with the same "welcome" phrase in Japanese. The shop wasn't fancy and formal, but humble and popular among people on Chowhound with nice chewy ramen that I suspected wasn't anything to be overly praised because it resembled the stuff of instant noodles, but I digress.







Click the pic for a video of the real, loud thing. ダブルラブ~

But Guu is popular for a reason, and I must humbly admit I was blown away by the food. Specials and all. All kinds of sake, all kinds of beer, novelty soda for earthquake victims in Japan and of course tea- that I was charged for. Phhh. Whatever. For an Asian place to charge for generic tea always seems like a disservice, or so my comrade and I think- unless of course its prepared cold. We don't know why exactly, there's something faulty in our logic there, but I think if we were to really think about it, our heads would implode.

We did the obvious: order tapas and see how full we could get. Considering the size, the price was fair, running from between 5 and 10 dollars; we tried fare like maguro carpaccio drenched in a ponzu sauce that permeated through each piece leaving the slightest fishy taste, aestheticized by fish eggs (forget about using "roe" here, it was what it was), and tuna marinated in a delightful soy, wasabi (reminiscent of the mustard of Dijon) and sesame sauce. We paid for pickled vegetables: sweet coloured radish, mild sesame cucumber and the like. We were probably the only ones who ordered the stuff. We were also adventurous enough- though to call us adventurous here especially with our history may seem a moot point- to try raw shrimp, propped up against each other heads pointed up in the shape of a fountain, like a group of synchronized singers ready to dive into the soy sauce accompanying them. Cool and slimy. I wasn't a fan, but Shing assured me that was the nature of the little sea beasts. That slimy, fuzzy feeling you get when putting the things in your mouth is more or less the way they are anywhere else. I didn't have the perspective to say otherwise. And before calling it a night and heading off to a burger joint to fill our stomachs we opted for the closest, fast food-esque item: deep fried chicken skin, a more aggrandized form of pork rinds, but still crispy and buttery nonetheless. It became one of our favourites, paired well no doubt with beer. But before that still we actually encouraged each other to try an entree off the menu before the rinds came. Like the old man I am, I cried out for a bowl of Japanese hot pot and rice (having never fully mastered my own and thinking the dish could give me some perspective) and Shing, like the Chinese-Italian wannabe he is, romantically asked for a bowl of carbonara "esco" udon with kimchi. The flavours were surprising, when I was reluctantly trying the kimchi in the dish I was impressed by the rich, sharp smoky flavour within that resembled the carbonaras I usually make myself. Using udon was pleasant fusion, and I only hoped that I could someday do something similar.

My hot pot was everything I imagined it would be: hearty with a deep barley noted broth, combined of course with the usual kombu presence. It was especially comforting considering how much we both yearned to be full. The vegetables, hard egg and strange processed fish pieces were what I needed.
After a staggering 80 dollars and trip to the bathroom, equipped with mouth wash and rustic stone bowled sinks watched over by the voice of Ou Yang Fei Fei singing Love Is Over, we were up and on our way to catching the subway, but not before urging Shing to go Karaoke to the song before we left. I couldn't believe it was playing; more importantly I couldn't believe I actually knew what the hell was playing. I did know one thing though, Guu certainly knows how to work a crowd and pander to an audience who likes to romanticize the East with bubble economy love ballads. Shoot, I wouldn't have been surprised if they served coffee and put gold leaf in the brew, but the people get what they pay for, even if it’s unrecognized, but very much appreciated by this eater, Japanese love ballads.
And yet, that was only one of the many charming food adventures that weekend. We told ghost stories, argued about Bourdain and Brittany Murphy and did it all again the next day at places like Sam's Congee, a joint packed with family and popular, yet temperate congee, deep fried devils and free tea and J-Town, where we paid for our cold malted chas (I’m bein’ fancy- that just means tea).
Yes devoted readers, I can honestly say that if I ever forget why I go out to eat visiting Shing Leung will always certainly remind me.

Guu Izakaya
398 Church street
Toronto, O.N. M5B 2A2
TEL: 416-977-0999
Mon - Thu 17:00-24:00
Fri - Sun 16:00-24:00 
Guu Izakaya on Urbanspoon